Sump Pump Repair and Replacement in Lancaster, PA
We repair or swap out sump pumps that have stopped, short-cycle or run too loudly.
This service is for homeowners whose existing sump pump is failing, cycling on and off, making noise or not running at all. We find out why the pump is struggling, repair it if that makes sense, and replace it if it does not. If you do not have a pump yet, see [Sump Pump Installation](/services/sump-pump-installation/).
Signs your sump pump is failing
A sump pump sits quietly in a pit until water rises, so most people only notice a problem when the basement starts to get damp. It is better to catch the early signs. A pump that is running more often than it used to, or running when the weather is dry, is telling you something.
Here is what we hear about most from homeowners in Lancaster and the towns around it:
- The pump runs, but the water level in the pit barely drops.
- The motor hums and does not start, or it starts and stops every few seconds.
- Grinding, rattling or loud vibration from the pit.
- The pump never turns on, even when the pit is full.
- The discharge pipe shakes or bangs when the pump kicks in.
- Rust on the pump body, or a pump that has been in service for many years.
Common sump pump problems and what causes them
Most failures come from a short list of causes. Knowing which one you have decides whether a repair is worth it.
Stuck or failed float switch
The float switch tells the pump when to start and stop. If it jams against the pit wall, tangles with the power cord or wears out, the pump either never starts or never shuts off. This is the most common cause of a dead pump, and often the cheapest to fix.
Short-cycling
Short-cycling means the pump turns on and off rapidly. Usual causes are a pit that is too small for the pump, a float set too close to the bottom, or a missing or failed check valve that lets water drain back into the pit after each cycle. Fixing the float or the valve often solves it.
Clogged intake or impeller
Silt, small stones and debris can block the intake screen or jam the impeller. The motor then runs but moves little water, or it overheats and trips. Cleaning the pit and the intake is part of any proper repair.
Burned-out motor or seized bearings
A pump that hums and will not turn, or that screams and grinds, usually has a failed motor or worn bearings. Motors can sometimes be rebuilt, but for most household pumps the cost makes replacement the better choice.
Frozen or blocked discharge line
If the pipe that carries water outside is crushed, clogged or frozen, the pump pushes against a closed line. Water backs up, the motor works hard and the pump can fail early. We trace the line from the pit to where it exits.
What a sump pump repair covers
Repair makes sense when the pump motor is sound and the problem is a part around it. We can replace a float switch, install a new check valve, clear a blocked intake, reseat the pump on a solid base, and correct a discharge line that is sagging or poorly connected.
We start by testing the pump. We pour water into the pit and watch the float, the motor, the check valve and the discharge. That tells us whether the pump moves water at a normal rate and where the weak point is. We explain what we found before any work starts, so you know what is being fixed and why.
When to replace a sump pump instead of repairing it
Replacement is the better call when the motor is failing, the housing is cracked or heavily rusted, or the pump has needed repeated fixes. It also makes sense when the pump was never the right size for the pit and the water coming in. A pump that is undersized for the job will keep failing no matter how many parts you replace.
If the basement has flooded or is taking on water regularly, a replacement pump is only part of the answer. In that case the cause may be bigger than the pump, and you may need Wet Basement Repair to deal with where the water is coming from. If the pit is already overflowing, call us about Emergency Flooded Basement Drainage first.
Choosing a replacement pump: submersible, pedestal and battery backup
Most homes do well with a submersible pump, which sits in the water in the pit. It runs quieter than a pedestal pump and handles heavy use. A pedestal pump has its motor above the pit on a column. It is easier to service and costs less, but it is louder and takes up more room.
Cast iron housings dissipate heat well and last longer than thermoplastic ones. Check the horsepower against how fast your pit fills, not just the size of the house. A vertical float is better for narrow pits, and a tethered float for wider ones.
We also recommend a battery backup pump for any basement that matters to you. Storms that fill the pit are often the same storms that knock out power. A backup pump on its own battery keeps the pit pumping when the main pump has no electricity or fails.
What a sump pump replacement visit involves
We cut power to the old pump, pull it from the pit and inspect the pit itself. We clear silt and debris, check the pit lid and the pipe connections, and look at where the discharge line leaves the house. Then we set the new pump on a level base, connect a new check valve, set the float so the pump cycles properly, and test it with water.
We also check that the pump sits on its own electrical outlet, ideally a ground-fault protected one. Before we leave, we run the pump through a full cycle with you watching, so you hear what normal sounds like.
Sump pump problems in Lancaster homes
Lancaster sits in the Piedmont region of Pennsylvania, just north of the Conestoga River, and the city averages 42 inches of precipitation a year. September is the wettest month, so a pump that struggled quietly through summer is often tested hardest in early fall. Heavy snow in winter adds a second round of meltwater in spring.
Your pump works hardest when the ground is already saturated, so check it before the wet months. Pour a bucket of water into the pit, watch it start, and listen for it to shut off cleanly. If you are not sure it passed, or the pit sits next to a damp wall or crack, a look at Foundation Crack Repair may be part of the plan. This work falls under our wider Basement Waterproofing service, and [Lancaster French Drain](/) can look at the whole system on one visit.
FAQ
Common questions about sump pump repair and replacement
If the pump still runs and the problem is a float, check valve or clog, repair is usually enough. If the motor hums without turning, grinds, or the housing is rusted through, replacement is the better choice. We test it before recommending either.
That is short-cycling. Common causes are a float set too low, a failed check valve letting water fall back into the pit, or a pit that is too small. It wears the motor quickly, so it is worth fixing soon.
A stuck float switch can keep the pump running, and so can a failed check valve that returns water to the pit. A high water table or a leaking pipe nearby can also keep the pit filling. We check the float and valve first.
We recommend one if your basement has finished space or stored belongings. Storms often cause power cuts, and a backup pump keeps working when the main pump cannot. It is a separate unit with its own battery.
Yes. We look at the pit, the discharge line and the check valve, and replace the pump to suit what is there. If the pit or piping is wrong for the pump, we tell you what needs changing.
Most replacements are done in a single visit. If the discharge line or pit needs extra work, we tell you before we start.
Book a visit
Request a drainage visit in Lancaster
Call (717) 696-1707 or send us a request. We are open Monday to Friday 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM and Saturday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. We will come out, look at where the water goes and explain what we would do.